On the Trail

On winter nights so cold inside my mobile home in the Santa Monica Mountains of rural Agoura that I can see my breath while the dog shivers and the houseplants exhibit signs of frostbite, it’s easy to forget the great toasty dream that lured me to Southern California in the first place. I’m usually the first to laud Southern California and the last to lambaste my adopted home—until winter settles in my backyard like an unwelcome guest and I turn frantic from freezing.

So when my boosterism needs a boost, I load up my bicycle and head down the coast to Will Rogers State Beach in Pacific Palisades, specifically the intersection of Temescal Canyon with the Pacific Coast Highway. It is there the South Bay Bike Trail begins, a paved beach-skimming, full-on oceanview path that runs about 22 mostly flat miles one-way clear to Torrance.

On a windy, chilly winter’s day in the mountains or canyon bottoms, the beach climate can often be so far in the opposite direction as to seem to exist on an entirely different planet. Before I’ve biked the first mile I’ve shed four layers of thermal gear.

The winter sun’s intense sheen off the Pacific—a blinding silver swath—provides an extra blast of heat. By the time I’ve cycled past the Santa Monica Pier—with its vintage carousel, Ferris wheel, mini-roller coaster, souvenir shops, varied eateries and happy hordes of visitors munching corn dogs and taking swipes at defiant pink clouds of cotton candy—I’m down to sandals, shorts and a tank top.

Nearing the section of the path that weaves through the sideshow that is Venice—from speechifying homeless characters to rap-rhythmic skateboarders, streetside masseuses, tattoo parlors and street performers ranging in ability from mediocre to middling to magnificent—I’m slathering sunscreen over my flushed cheeks and tingling nose.

The bike path takes a well-marked detour (via bike lanes) through the trafficky streets of Marina del Rey before resuming its safe, smooth journey near the UCLA rowing club. A great stop along this otherwise asphalt-heavy, SUV-dodgin’ stretch is Fisherman’s Village, totally a tourist trap but quaint and inviting nonetheless with its shops and eateries.

It resembles a Californian’s idea of a New England fishing village with brightly colored clapboard buildings and cobbled walkways. There’s a lovely landscaped courtyard (replete with a lava rock fountain and hanging baskets of the cheeriest flowers) where professional musicians present free concerts on weekend afternoons. Rental kayaks are available as well as a host of charter cruises.

I always "brake" here to partake of a freshly made ice cream sandwich at a tiny Greek gyro stand—a generous wedge of delicious chocolate ice cream parked inside two real warm breakfast waffles. And I also play tourist, buying postcards and cutesy overpriced knick-knacks.

Onward—depending on one’s energy level. You cannot get lost on the South Bay Bike Trail even when it veers away from the beach for a while. There are so many other cyclists and in-line skaters, you can just "go with the flow." And fear not if you don’t own your own bicycle or skates. There are oodles of rental shops along much of the route, with bikes for every family member plus bikes equipped with baby carriers/joggers (some people use these to bring their small dogs along for the ride). During winter some rental shops may only be open on weekends. Prices are very reasonable.

The path resumes after a nice stretch past the marina and harbor where a variety of colorful sailboats can often be seen heading out or coming in. Then it is smooth sailing along the least crowded stretch of the entire bike path as the path slices through an enormous, broad beach. There’s a blowhole or spouting-horn type effect among the breakwater’s rocks just as you rejoin the path, and a kite pro with a fantastic collection of kites regularly plies the skies in the vicinity.

On you go past miles of mostly deserted beach with the shimmering, sparkling Pacific for company. Near Dockweiler Beach you’ll notice planes prepping for a landing at LAX—they appear low enough that you might feel like ducking. Along this stretch, down to Manhattan Beach, you’ll get a few minor "inclines" (they don’t even merit being called "hills") but even a coaster bike will get you up ‘em all right.

The Scattergood power plant with its candy cane-striped smokestacks is the conspicuous beacon down this end, then a series of piers which you can stroll out on (you must walk your bike) including one at Manhattan Beach that has a small aquarium at the far end.

From El Segundo ("El Porto" to locals) down to Hermosa Beach you’ll have sand on one side and a low landscaped bluff on the other topped by whimsical houses built in Victorian, nautical and moderne styles. This is a pleasant stretch especially for gardeners because the homeowners have planted a series of charming gardens lining the pedestrians-only walkway that parallels the bike path. Benches are available to enjoy both the gardens and the wonderful ocean views.

On El Porto Beach is Alfredo’s, a great little food stand with umbrella-shaded tables located directly on the sand. You’ll really feel like you’re in paradise, chowing down while watching surfers ride the curl, your toes in the silky sand as you work on your tan, gloating that it would have cost some $1,400 to have a fabulous winter’s vacation day like this on Maui.

Continuing on, keep track of the time if only to allow yourself ample time to bike back in winter’s abbreviated daylight. On busy weekends you’ll be required (by a red stoplight’s warning and posted signs) to walk your bike for a bit through Hermosa Beach because the path abuts a very popular promenade so there’s lots of strollers, dogs, kids and other distractions and/or obstacles.

The trail soon comes to an abrupt halt near a nondescript block wall, then it’s a ride through streets to pick it up again and finally make a landing at the Redondo Beach pier.

This last stretch is really optional because it’s the least attractive part of the ride (requiring more busy street riding) and this pier area, while partially refurbished, lacks the quaint charm of the Santa Monica pier. The path’s terminus in Torrance is about two rather bland miles farther south.

Although you’ll encounter speeding cyclists and some incredibly fast and territorial skaters along the length of the path, if you keep alert you should be fine. Most of these characters are supposed to observe a speed limit because the occasional toddler or unsuspecting tourist will sometimes stray onto the "bikes only" path and could easily be mowed down. But the speeders tend to be experienced at weaving and fast detours although that is no excuse for their aggressive style.

Be extra alert in crowded stretches as the latest rage is skating or cycling while talking on a cell phone (I kid you not) and that’s really dangerous. One lady I was biking behind suddenly slammed on her brakes when her cell phone rang inside her bike bag and stopped in the middle of the path (a major no-no; you are always supposed to pull off to one side) to answer it.

Phone to ear she remounted her bicycle, and her very public conversation did not sound remotely like that of a doctor responding to an emergency call. How would I penalize her for such idiotic behavior? I’d sentence her to spend the night freezing her [ahem] off in my frosty little mountain home, far from this blessed winter beach.